When I was
little, Aunt Carrie and Uncle Everette, my grandmother’s sister and
brother-in-law, lived in a Victorian house on the corner of Broad and High
Market Streets in Georgetown, South Carolina.
Diagonally across on the same corner stood the Church of Prince
George’s, Winyah, the old and rather large Episcopal church where horses of
British troops had been stabled during the Revolutionary War.
On a Sunday during Christmastide when
I was not quite of school age, we paid our relatives a visit. Somebody suggested after dinner—the big
mid-day meal on Sunday in the South of my youth—that we peek in to Prince
George’s to see the decorations. I
remember marveling at the fact that it was well after Christmas Day and yet the
church remained decorated. No one in the
crowd, all Methodists, could explain that to me except to say, “Well, son, that’s
just the way they do it in the ’piscopal Church.”
It must have been the first time
that I heard the word “yaupon.” It is an evergreen deciduous shrub native to
the Coastal Plain in the Southeastern United States that rivals holly as the
producer of an elegant red berry. Yaupon,
pine, holly and a few poinsettias adorned the pews and windows of the
church. I was enchanted. Seasonal scents; the odor of polished wood;
the churchy smell of hymnals and prayer books; light flowing in the large, arched
windows; the towering pulpit; the oddity of a church having a brick floor; the
box pews with gates: they all stick in
my memory, however much they may fail to match the 1949 reality in every
detail. But it is the yaupon that I
remember best.
My family was not particularly
churchy during those years. My mother would
pack me off to Sunday School, my brother Jim riding his motorbike with me
sitting atop the gas tank between him and the handlebars. Given his disdain for the younger brother
that had robbed him of his status as Only Child at the age of 10, it is a
wonder that I survived those trips to church.
But church, every facet of it, was to me a magnet. Going into a church with a noble name like “Prince
George’s Episcopal Church, Winyah” was to me like sending one of my grandsons
now to see the Super Bowl from the 50-yard line, twenty rows up. It was about as close to heaven as I could
imagine getting.
Yaupon, it turns out, was a plant
that figured prominently in some Native American male-only purification and
bonding rituals. From it they brewed a
black tea. The men who drank it must
have liked it, because they frequently drank such quantities of it after
fasting that they vomited. Europeans,
ever the smart ones, got the notion that the tea caused the vomiting (which
might in fact have been an intentional part of the purification rites), and so
named it eventually “Ilex vomitoria,” giving a libelous appellation to a
gorgeous plant.
I ponder now the fact that when I
was not yet five, church and a symbol of male rites of purification and unity slid
together during the Twelve Days of celebrating the Incarnation, pre-eminent
festival of embodiment. I could make a
case that on one Sunday afternoon in Georgetown, in the company of relatives, I
sensed my life vocation in that sliding together, and said, “Yes!”
© Frank Gasque Dunn, 2016
1 comment:
Yerba mate is the related Ilex paraguariensis, so if you have ever had mate, you've gotten close to yaupon tea.
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